William h



W. Hgwoon. Shoes.

No. 228,155. Patented may 25,1880.

'MFI-TENS. PHOTGLITHDGRAPHER, WASHINGTON D C.

lNiTnD STATES PATENT Orricn WILLIAM H. WOOD, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK.'

sHoE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 228,155, dated May 25, 1880.

Application led August 28, 1879.

To all'whom it 'may concern: l Y

Be it known that I, WILLIAM H. Woon, of the city of Rochester, county of Monroe, and State of New York, have invented a certain new a-nd useful Improvement in Shoes; and l do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which show my improvement applied to the iy or button-ilap of the shoe.

My improvement relates to the button-holes of shoes and the process of making them, by which a beaded or turned-over lining to the button-hole is produced, which insures great strength and long wear, all as hereinafter described.

The figures inthe drawings show the several steps in the process of making the buttonhole in my improved manner, and which I will now proceed to describe.

A, Figure 1, represents the outer layer or thickness of leather of the button-hole iiy or flap. In this layer are cut, at proper distances apart, a series of slits, a a, for the button-holes.

B B, Fig. 2, are a series of pads of thin leather, which are placed over the thickness A, and covering the slits a a. These pads are stitched to the leather around and close to the edges ofthe slits, as shown at b, (at the left in Fig. 2,) and when this is done the pads themselves are slitted, as shown at the right inFig. 2, so as to come in line with the button-holes.!]jThe loose edges of the pads B B are then bent inward and carried through the slits, so as to lie on the under side of the leather, as shown in Fig. 3, leaving thereby a bead or`"lining all around the margin of the button-hole, and covering up and shielding the raw edge of the leather. To facilitate the turning of the pads, the same are preferably notched or slitted at top and bottom before turning, as shown at c c, Fig. 2; but this may be dispensed with and the pad be left whole.

The finishing step ofthe process consists in placing the lowerthickness or layer of leather, D, over the upper one, A, with the loose edges of the pads B B resting between them, and

then producing a line of stitching, d, around the button-hole, said stitching passing through the two thicknesses of leather and the pads,

and securing them fast in place, as shown in Fig. 4.

By the' means above described a beading or lining having a turned edge, covering the raw edge ofthe upper thickness of leather, is produced, which will stand great strain and wear, and will endure as long as the shoe will.

l am aware that a stamped lining shaped to the button-hole and resting between the two thicknesses of leather is well known, but in such case the edges of the upper'layer are left exposed and raw, and a single line of stitching only holds the parts in place.

In my invention the pad is turned inward and over the edge of the upper thickness, covering and shielding the same, and it is protected by two separate and distinct lines of stitching, the iirst of which secures the edge of the pad to the edge of the leather,where the greatest strain com es, and the last of which secures all the thicknesses together outside the button-hole.

I design to apply this invention to cloth as well as leather shoes, the layers and pads all being made of cloth, or a part of cloth and a part of leather.

I design alsorto use it in the key-hole or eyed button-holes, as shown .in Fig. 5, as well as in straight ones.

The lower layer, D., is the same known as the button-dy lining in ordinary shoes. The pads also form stays to support the lay-` ers around the button-hole.

Having thus described my I claim as new is l. The method or process hereindescribed of forming button-holes in shoes, which consists in first slitting the upper layer, then placing pads over said slits, stitching said pads to the edges of the slits, and cutting through said pads inthe line of the slits, then turning the outer edges of the pads inward, inserting them through the slits and turning them outward on the under side, and finally placing the lower layer over the upper one, covering the pads, slitting said lower layer in line with the button-holes, and stitching through the two layers and the pads outside the button-hole, as herein shown and described.

2. A boot or shoe in which the button-holes are protected by slitted pads, which are iirst invention, what roo seWed on the right side of the material commy name in the presence of two subscribing posing` the upper, and then turned through Witnesses. the slits forming the button-holes, so as to cover or line their edges, and secured by lines 5 of stitching on the under side, substantially Witnesses:

as specified. R. F. Oseoon,

In witness whereof I have hereunto signed H.' L. BENNETT.

WILLIAM HQ Wool). 

